The medina

The ochre tones of its streets and constructions have earned it the nickname of the Red Town. Although it has lost some of its legendary mystery, its alleyways still give off an atmosphere of yore. The smells and sounds come from everywhere, some good, some not so good, but nearly all of them surprising. Don’t rush as you discover this world apart, so different from its younger sister, the new town. As in other Arab cities, senses and emotions are magnified here.

Souks: Marrakech’s legendary souks are organised like the medieval guilds in Europe: each trade or craftsman has an allotted street or market. As the years have passed, this structure has become diluted. Nowadays the main streets that are visited most by tourists sell everything: slippers, jellabas, ceramics, teapots, basketry and even DVDs.

The shopkeepers are insistent and will not hesitate to keep you in their establishment for a long time if they feel they will make a sale. Bargaining is commonplace and accepted in local culture. Don’t be shy and negotiate, as the initial prices are usually quite exorbitant.

Don’t hesitate to go down any of the alleyways and lose yourself. As you move away from the main streets, you will pass through places that retain the essence of olden days. The delicately displayed spices, fruit stands and meat and animal souks are a mosaic of sounds and smells that constitute the soul of old Marrakech.

Likewise not to be missed are the streets where metalwork still takes place: the noise of the soldering irons and hammers striking copper is nearly deafening. The craftsmen – especially the solderers – are completely covered in dust. Tourists are secondary here – the most important thing is work. People will talk to you, but only to welcome you and wish you luck, not to sell you anything.

Koutoubia Mosque: This mosque, located very near to the Djemaa el Fna square, is the highest building in the old town. It is 70m high and has very beautiful ornamentations that served as a model for Seville’s Giralda bell tower. It dates from the Almohad period, in the 12th century, and stands out for the lack of uniformity in its design: each of the four facades and arches of its minaret are different. Non-Muslims may not enter, but are allowed to stroll in the beautiful outer gardens.

Saadian tombs: This mausoleum, which was commissioned in the 16th century by Sultan Ahmed al Mansour for himself and his family, related to the Saudi royal family, lies south of the Koutoubia Mosque. The inside is richly decorated with bright, colourful ceilings, marble columns and lovely cedar stuccoes. If you wish to visit them, be ready to stand in long queues unless you go early in the morning.

Ben Youssef Madrasa: One of the largest Islamic schools in North Africa, founded in the mid 14th century. Its beauty bears witness to the wealth of Islamic art. Highlights are the bronze door at the entrance, the mosaic floors and the dome with stalactites inside. It also has around a hundred rooms arranged around an ornamented courtyard.

City walls: The whole medina is delimited by coloured walls 19 km in length and 8m high. It has ten gateways, some dating back to the 12th century. In olden times they were the only ways of entering the medina. One good way of discovering it is by riding in a horse-drawn calash. The walls takes on its full splendour at dusk, when the sun accentuates its beautiful ochre tones.

Jewish quarter: This district, known as the Mellah, lies next to the former royal palace, because the Jews were under the protection of the Sultan. Although the original inhabitants have emigrated to Israel or Europe, its streets and houses have a different appearance to the rest of the city. The galleries and windows, with ornamentation that also had a defensive purpose, give the town a touch of originality. Bordering on this district there is a small synagogue and a cemetery.

Djemaa el Fna square

Without a doubt this is the heart of the old town of Marrakech. The square unleashes its magic in full in the evening. This is when it fills up with storytellers, musicians, actors, jugglers, snake charmers or simple charlatans.

Tourists and locals congregate here, the former simply to soak up the atmosphere, as the majority do not understand what the nocturnal orators are saying. The latter come to listen to timeless melodies and stories, or see shows that are often improvised. This spoken legacy, passed down through the generations without writing, has earned it the UNESCO declaration as Masterpiece of the Intangible and Oral Heritage of Humanity.

This square is also a good place in which to have dinner and try some delicious orange juice. When night falls, the food stands take up a fair amount of the space here. You can stroll around and choose whichever you like best. Some stallholders are a show in themselves – accustomed to the influx of tourists from all over the world, they manage to speak a few words in the broadest variety of languages: Spanish, English, German, Italian and sometimes even Japanese.

A good way of admiring the Djemaa el Fna square is from the terrace of one of the cafes that surround it. From above you can soak up the sounds and lights that fill the night.

Menara gardens

On the other side of the medina walls lies the imperial garden – more of an olive tree plantation and orchard, really. In the heart of the olive grove there is a basin (artificial pool) and a 19th-century pavilion, used respectively for irrigation and as the venue for the love games of the former sultans. 

There are many other gardens like this one, and they are a good alternative to the hustle and bustle of the old town. The most important ones are Aguedal, Majorelle and El Harti.

The palm grove

Like the gardens, this large palm grove is a good place for escaping from the noise and crowds of the medina. Currently it is one of the most exclusive districts of the city, with luxury hotels, golf courses and residences. The palm trees were planted in the Almoravid era and there is an irrigation system with underground canals coming from the Atlas Mountains.

Visit a Hammam

Nearly every district has its hammam. Here steam baths alternate with cold water baths and body massages. When you leave, your body and mind will notice it, as a session in an Arab baths is an assurance of relaxation and purification, at least in a physical sense.

Formerly usage of the baths was reserved for the wealthier classes, but nowadays it is more generalised. As well as being places of repose, many of them serve as meeting places – mothers often observe the potential future wives of their sons, the true monarchs of every household.
Since this is still a very traditional country, there are, usually, different timetables for men and women.

Excursion to the Ourika valley

Located in the heart of Berber country, this valley is one of the most beautiful in Morocco. All along the valley the oases that lend colour and life to the austere landscape alternate with adobe villages that seem to rise up out of the land of the same colour. Some of them are more prosperous than others, and rise up proudly with elegant buildings. One of the most interesting places is the famous waterfalls of Setti-Fatma. The biggest falls are a few hours away from the village, but the refreshing route is well worthwhile.

Go skiing

The Oukaimeden ski resort, the highest in Africa at 3273m, is open from December to March. Just 70km from Marrakech, its pistes are an escape-valve from the bustle of the city.
Moreover, Oukaimeden is less crowded than many European ski resorts, so the snow and quality of the skiing is usually extremely good. The Berber village of the same name, clinging onto the mountainside, offers very picturesque scenery.

Golf

Palmeraie Golf: As well as the sporting challenge the course represents, players will also enjoy themselves here, surrounded by palm trees and fantastic views of the Atlas Mountains.

Shopping

The souks of Marrakech are heaven for people who love shopping… and bargaining. In them you will find all the products manufactured by local craftsmen, and those of the rest of Morocco. There is an abundance of slippers, jellabas, teapots, glassware, wooden objects and carpets, the latter usually made by Touareg and Berber women, who come to the city to sell them.

In the streets of the medina you will also find spices such as saffron and cinnamon, as well as a wide variety of fruits. The oranges and the figs, both of which are very common in Morocco, are particularly outstanding.

Be prepared to bargain. Souk merchants will stop you time and time again, offering products at very high prices. They will state the opposite, but if you are skilful and good at bargaining, you will be able to lower the price to half or less. Some people find this practice annoying and even unethical, but the fact is it forms part of the local customs.

Eating out

Plaza Jemaa el Fna: When night falls, this large square fills up with food stalls. The steaming stands offer meat or chicken kebabs, fried fish, “harira” - the typical Moroccan soup - hard-boiled egg and potato sandwiches and other specialities. Don’t miss the delicious – slightly hot – snails, and naturally, the famous orange juice and the indispensable mint tea.

There are some very good restaurants to be found in the streets of the medina, too. And you can also go to the new town, where many top-quality establishments have opened.

Specialities

Couscous: This is the most typical and internationally-famous Moroccan dish. The main ingredient is wheat semolina, combined with egg, chicken, lamb or vegetables. This dish is commonly consumed on Friday, the day of rest for Muslims. It is normally eaten from a single dish, from which several people serve themselves.

Tajines: Another very well-known local speciality. Cooked meat or fish, accompanied by vegetables or fruit and seasoned with cinnamon and saffron. 
 
Harira: This is the national soup, very popular during the month of Ramadan. It is comprised of pulses, meat, vegetables and spices such as pepper, cinnamon or coriander. It is usually served with a garnish of dates. 
 
Pastille: Fine layers of pastry filled with meat, spices, sugar and cinnamon. This dish originates from Al-Andalus and is very typical of festivals and celebrations.
 
All this can be accompanied by the delicious fruit juices or mint tea, found everywhere in markets and bars all over the country.